tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35757620217250944522024-03-13T16:23:19.211-04:00Hacking on Kite BitsAlberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3575762021725094452.post-37264694972847608532013-05-31T17:54:00.001-04:002013-05-31T17:54:31.270-04:00My first workable ariel self portrait.<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G33r8MZUadk/UakcFURKZ4I/AAAAAAAAAOE/VQQJC3iMsho/s1600/IMG_2496.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G33r8MZUadk/UakcFURKZ4I/AAAAAAAAAOE/VQQJC3iMsho/s400/IMG_2496.JPG" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a>I arrived by bike. and got to work so quickly I forgot to take off my bike helmet.<div style='clear:both; text-align:LEFT'><a href='http://picasa.google.com/blogger/' target='ext'><img src='http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif' alt='Posted by Picasa' style='border: 0px none ; padding: 0px; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; -moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial;' align='middle' border='0' /></a></div>Alberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3575762021725094452.post-90721032452566879722012-05-28T21:30:00.000-04:002012-05-28T21:30:45.843-04:00The All-Round Picavet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
Last Saturday I took the chance to do some kite aerial photography, but time was short and I could not build a picavet to steady my camera before I left my house.<br />
<br />
So I built one on site.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pKwqJplXaNQ/T8F7rba34MI/AAAAAAAAAEU/AAAXO0VYAfo/s1600/IMG_3349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
After 40 minutes of snipping, cutting and taping on the side of a footpath close to the water in between the Canada Goose droppings I ended up with this: <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pKwqJplXaNQ/T8F7rba34MI/AAAAAAAAAEU/AAAXO0VYAfo/s320/IMG_3349.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="A picavet constructed from All-Round plumber's strap" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A picavet constructed from plumber's strap.<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-72Phy6aOgFA/T8F8RvWBfBI/AAAAAAAAAEg/i8h6q77ZgxE/s1600/IMG_3350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-72Phy6aOgFA/T8F8RvWBfBI/AAAAAAAAAEg/i8h6q77ZgxE/s320/IMG_3350.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pivacet I constructed out of All-Round,bottom rear view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The camera is a Canon PowerShot 410 I previously bought for 20$ Canadian in a pawn shop, so I was not two worried about losing it into the drink or dropping it from a height or both. I have a 4GB SD card in it so it can take thousands of 3.2 megapixel images before running out of space. I did not have timed photos working (I plan to use CHDK) so I simply launched with the camera in video mode.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/Plumbing/PipeBracesWrap/PRDOVR%7E0633638P/Dahl+All+Round+Galvanized+Steel+Strapping.jsp?locale=en" rel="nofollow">All-Round</a> is usually used for suspending plumbing or reinforcing electrical wire in construction. It cuts easily with aviation snips and forms easily with the hands. It acts a lot like
Meccano beams but comes in cheap long rolls, one variation is covered with
nylon! I estimate that I used 1.25m of strapping and that cost me all of a Canadian dollar.<br />
<br />
<br />
I made a bender out of the same material to make angled bends easier, but most of the forming was done by eye with my hands. The frame is deliberately squashed to one side to balance out the camera below the suspension point. <br />
<br />
The cross was more all round with a spacer made from strapping to allow the frame to twist on a 2 inch long number 8 nylon bolt with two nuts on top jammed together to prevent them twisting off. The camera was bolted on with a shortened 1/4"-20 nylon bolt and stabilized with some electrical tape (I ran out of duck tape early this month).<br />
<br />
Next was a cradle of dark fishing line, some carabiners on the flight line and a trial launch for balancing. I had another camera with me (a better one that I was not trusting to my first picavet) and here is what the result looks like in the air:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6lKd1BkvTwo/T8F-cL48ObI/AAAAAAAAAEs/9vnqgTdWy_o/s1600/IMG_3347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6lKd1BkvTwo/T8F-cL48ObI/AAAAAAAAAEs/9vnqgTdWy_o/s640/IMG_3347.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kite, Picavet, Camera, and Moon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you look closely just below the line between the kite and camera the crescent moon just stands out from the high cloud cover. Whoever identifies the kite can has bragging rights for as long as they want them. :) Also, the safety line attached to the camera strap is visible swinging downwind. I wanted to be able to try again if my construction was not up to snuff!<br />
<br />
The wind was strong -- <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beaufort_scale">Beaufort 4</a> according to the video evidence -- and the kite was on the edge of being overpowered despite flying high and stable. The only disturbances to the camera I saw were how puffs would pull the line tighter and pitch the camera along the axis of the line as it straightened and bowed.<br />
<br />
I now think that I should have added some split rings or other low friction loops to run the cradle line through to counter this , but I'm still very happy with the results of a first try.<br />
<br />Look for stills from the 640x480 video later, the video itself is too bouncy in pitch to compress nicely.<br />
<br />
Oh, I used my <a href="http://hackingonkitebits.blogspot.ca/2012/02/please-note-graphics-in-early-part-of.html">KAPstan</a> to pull in the line, and it made what would have been a chore a simple workout. I would not have sent the kite up ~100m more in that wind if I didn't have a good way to pull it down and hand winding onto a halo at high tension (I had no way to measure it but there was no problem lifting that 150g camera with 2 alkaline AA's and a steel picavet!<br />
<br />
This effort is not as clean and tidy as one of the refined units from <a href="http://www.brooxes.com/newsite/BBKK/BBKK-PARTS.html">Brooxes shop</a>, but I sure had fun with it!Alberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.com03259 Carling Ave, Ottawa, ON K2H 1A6, Canada45.353864262865478 -75.827438235282945.353515762865477 -75.8280552352829 45.35421276286548 -75.826821235282893tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3575762021725094452.post-21038358920560387102012-04-22T22:47:00.000-04:002012-04-22T22:48:54.531-04:00Kite Mobile in Cube Land.I must confess that I work in cubicle land to feed my hacking habits.<br />
<br />
But my co-workers, neighbours and random visitors know that someone odd sits in my cubicle when the see this:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-grsOMzWaGmo/T5S-pT0YNcI/AAAAAAAAAEE/U02QOS33x0w/s1600/Kite_n_gnome_mobile-2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-grsOMzWaGmo/T5S-pT0YNcI/AAAAAAAAAEE/U02QOS33x0w/s640/Kite_n_gnome_mobile-2.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The hanging gnome is an in-joke from my wife based on a trip to Adelaide South Australia where we saw some Christmas elf decorations that had blown(?) off light stands on Rundle Mall and were hanging from their safety cables. I'll find that surreal photo someday...<br />
<br />
The fighting kites are from <a href="http://www.leevalleytools.com/">Lee Valley Tools</a> [1] ten years ago, the tee-bar hook/adaptor is from Home Depot and the rest is just coat hanger wire and fishing line.<br />
<br />
Lots of folks now give directions along the lines of 'two cubes toward the windows from the kites' with great effect.<br />
<br />
I sometimes wonder what people really think about the guy under that mobile...<br />
<br />
Are there any other mobiles out there in the cubicle wastelands?<br />
<br />
[1] Warning! Lee Valley Tools is an enormous time and money pit for those of us who love beautiful functional tools.Alberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3575762021725094452.post-58543002938927917342012-03-08T23:01:00.000-05:002012-03-08T23:01:41.731-05:00Easier letting out of line, proof of concept.While dreaming of getting my bike rolling in a couple of months I struck on a way to take up the slack thrown out by the take up reel in the designs I have show so far.
I just modelled the idea in proof of concept form on my existing version 2 winder - in modelling clay.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iMC0nnoarMo/T1l4XAfugUI/AAAAAAAAAC0/_4x51D3PWnc/s1600/dual_diameter_KAPstan_clay_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iMC0nnoarMo/T1l4XAfugUI/AAAAAAAAAC0/_4x51D3PWnc/s320/dual_diameter_KAPstan_clay_1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proof of concept model of a dual drum capstan (Operator's view). Feeding line out causes the line to hop up on the larger drum to prevent slack line from building up and getting tangled.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aFU4jZthYR0/T1l4esI0kHI/AAAAAAAAADA/6c8HabaDRjc/s1600/dual_diameter_KAPstan_clay_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aFU4jZthYR0/T1l4esI0kHI/AAAAAAAAADA/6c8HabaDRjc/s320/dual_diameter_KAPstan_clay_2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The basic idea is to use the first fair lead from capstan to the take up reel to cause the line to jump up onto a second capstan drum profile that has a diameter just larger than the top layers of string on a full take up reel. The jump happens only when there is enough slack to make it possible, and then the line stays on the bigger drum as long as the line is unwinding.<br />
<br />
When the capstan is used to wind in, the line is guided back onto the smaller drum almost instantly, and only a small amount of slack builds up for the few turns it takes for the line on the large drum to be unwound again. That smallish bunch of slack could be handled with a tensioning spring arrangement - unwinding with the single size drum would produce slack as long as the reel unwound and no spring could control that.<br />
<br />
So, I tried it out with modelling clay tonight and it works!<br />
<br />
Some notes:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Clay is ideal for the prototype, but I'll have to use something heftier for the real thing. The tension to pull line off the reel is driving the line into the clay.</li>
<li>The profile of the large drum should be level or slope toward the smaller drum so the string will travel toward the kite-side fair lead smoothly. As it is the line over-runs itself regularly and cuts out bits of clay.</li>
<li>The positioning of the take-up side fair leads is now more important. I just drilled another pair of holes for the eye screw, but it seems the best position is between those holes. C'est la vie.</li>
<li>The natural positions for the fair lead screws seems to be angled further toward the axle than they have been. I have not hidden the screw threads on them yet, and the line keeps getting caught down there.</li>
<li>I didn't notice before but the combination of a reel mount a bit skewed from the axle axis and the slipper clutch does some level winding! I'll look into this more later.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Next Steps</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Build another capstan out of a pair of disks of 3/4" plywood and try that. I want a unit tailored to my 8" halos so I can unwind and wind with little trouble.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Experiment with different fair lead positions.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Add some way to slow the line as it goes out. I can brake on the drum or support disk for now, but something more elegant might be needed for large line tensions.</div>Alberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3575762021725094452.post-28705061257289781472012-02-21T21:59:00.001-05:002012-02-21T21:59:53.835-05:00A video introduction is worth how many k-words?I have slapped together a pedestrian video introduction to how the winder works now and posted it on YouTube:<br />
<br />
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/U7Bru2U8NmQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<br />
Also: there have been some excellent comments, experiences and challenges raised in the KAP discussion I started to get some feedback on my first article <a href="http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/kap/discuss/comments.php?DiscussionID=3775">http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/kap/discuss/comments.php?DiscussionID=3775</a>Alberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3575762021725094452.post-23928075921296230262012-02-12T23:38:00.000-05:002012-02-12T23:40:36.185-05:00Introduction to the KAPstan kite winder<br />
<h1 class="western">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><i>Please note: The graphics in the early part of the document are the best I can do for now. I hope they get the point across!</i></span></span></h1>
<h1 class="western">
A Kite Line Capstan With Winder Adaptors.</h1>
<h2 class="western">
Motivation</h2>
In the summer of 2009 I decided I wanted to get into Kite Aerial
Photography, and quickly became dissatisfied with the tedium of
winding in kite string; especially with a lot of wind.<br />
So, I went looking on the internet for kite winders and was
unimpressed by what I found since I did not want to limit myself to
just one line weight per bulky and heavy-weight winder. I really like
flying from a halo spool; thank you very much.<br />
But! One cannot wind lots of line under significant tension onto a
lightweight halo. The halo tends to collapse or <a href="http://www.halfbakery.com/idea/Non-explosive_20Kite_20Winder#1085504400">explode</a>
due to the accumulated stress. The heavy-weight winders are heavy
because they are built to take that stress.
<br />
One comment on the page about a halo winder <a href="http://www.halfbakery.com/idea/Non-explosive_20Kite_20Winder#1085504400">exploding</a>
got me thinking:<br />
<div class="text-body-indent">
<i>I would think that the right approach
would be to have the cord wind around a shaft a few times before
going onto the spool; the shaft would thus supply most of the tension
for pulling in the kite; the spool could be left a little bit to
avoid an overly-loose wind, but would not have the huge force pushing
on it.</i></div>
<div align="RIGHT">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 174px;">
<colgroup><col width="18"></col>
<col width="156"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: none; padding: 0cm;" valign="TOP" width="18"><div class="text-body-indent">
—</div>
</td>
<td style="border: none; padding: 0cm;" width="156"><div class="text-body-indent">
<a href="http://www.halfbakery.com/user/supercat">supercat</a>,
May 26 2004</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
That sounded like a capstan and take up reel to me!<br />
<h3 class="western">
Sailing Winches, Capstans, and Take-up Reels</h3>
Now, my other summertime hobby is sailing, and there we deal with
lines (ropes) under horrific tension and make them tighter with
sailing winches, or capstans as they are properly called. The lines
to be tensioned is wrapped clockwise around the barrel of the winch 2
or 3 times and pulled taught so the loops are tight against the
barrel. Manually operated capstans have pawls inside (somewhat like
a bicycle freewheel) that allow it to rotate clockwise only and snug
winds of the lines have a lot of grip against the textured barrel; so
the line will not slip back out again as long as a light tension is
maintained on the tail ( that is the bit of line that is already
'past' the winch)<br />
Usually it it possible to plug crank handles into the top of the
capstan and use them to crank the barrel around to pull in more rope.
The handles swing out 2 or 3 times the radius of the barrel so there
is some mechanical advantage working for the cranker even with direct
drive. For situations needing even more pull there are winches that
use a lower gear ratio if you crank the handle counter-clockwise, and
even fancier units that will gear down again if you crank clockwise
again. Some sailing winches have an additional rope gripper that
handles the tail automatically to avoid dedicating one person to
tailing while another hefty soul grinds<a class="sdfootnoteanc" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote1sym" name="sdfootnote1anc"><sup>1</sup></a>
away on the winch handle.<br />
Of course the hefty soul could be replaced with a motor. But
motors are heavy and illegal in wind-power-only competition. And
sailing is all about competition.<br />
What happens to all that line when it has been cranked in?
Generally it gets dumped on the deck because the lengths are
manageable: meters only, not tens of meters. Its usually too long
(and too thick) to wind onto the capstan of the winch, but O.K. to
sit on or coil up a bit after the fact. Quick access may be more
important than utter neatness all the time.<br />
But if there is a lot of line, it should get wound up on a reel
under just enough tension to keep it neat. That means the drum can be
of lightweight construction (even cardboard!) because the windup
effect is not going to happen once the winch/capstan has dealt with
the tension..Managing the tension difference is a detailed subject I
don't want to completely understand; I just want to preserve my halo
kite string reels so I can take aerial photographs of racing!<br />
<h3 class="western">
My kite string winder wish list</h3>
<ul>
<li>Make it possible to use a halo as a take up reel<br />
</li>
<li>quick changes of take up reels so:<br />
<ul>
<li>I can fly a a kite on the halo alone, and retrieve it on the
winder.<br />
</li>
<li>several kite lines on compatible reels can fly and pulled
down with the winder<br />
</li>
<li>I can chain several reels worth of line together.<br />
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>handy enough to be used on a boat, especially a sailboat.<br />
</li>
<li>provide some mechanical advantage for high pull situations<br />
</li>
<li>have a speed handle for low pull situations<br />
</li>
<li>lightweight, but robust enough to go in a backpack, be used
on a boat, and by a child.<br />
</li>
<li>home build-able from cheap material<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h2 class="western">
The Basic Ideas</h2>
I started with the basic capstan to reel idea ( the reel is on a
slipper clutch to control the winding tension):<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MJIGVWJw1C4/TziMCdnjDhI/AAAAAAAAAA4/h5JPl9D0paQ/s1600/Kapstan_BasicsUnfolded.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MJIGVWJw1C4/TziMCdnjDhI/AAAAAAAAAA4/h5JPl9D0paQ/s640/Kapstan_BasicsUnfolded.png" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
and put the winch and reel slipper clutch on the same axle to ease
construction and save space. This required a pair of fair leads to
direct the line from the capstan to the reel<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a schematic of the top view:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9_muZtKPPiA/TziMBxWQVvI/AAAAAAAAAAw/xYcBm9JhJ1A/s1600/Kapstan_BasicsFolded.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9_muZtKPPiA/TziMBxWQVvI/AAAAAAAAAAw/xYcBm9JhJ1A/s640/Kapstan_BasicsFolded.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="frame-contents">
<br /></div>
<br />
<h2 class="western">
</h2>
<h2 class="western">
One Real World KAPstan<a class="sdfootnoteanc" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote2sym" name="sdfootnote2anc"><sup>2</sup></a>
Winch</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dhLtyoHzXaI/TziMCuvgsaI/AAAAAAAAABA/jQrBng0lH88/s1600/Kapstan_inUse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dhLtyoHzXaI/TziMCuvgsaI/AAAAAAAAABA/jQrBng0lH88/s400/Kapstan_inUse.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Here is an operators view of one real world implementation:<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
</div>
<ul>
<li>The spine of the winch is made from 3/4 inch dowel with a
simple hole drilled crosswise for the 1/4 inch bolt axle.</li>
<li>The top and bottom cross pieces are also dowel, glued and
screwed onto the spine where it was cut with a 3/4 inch drill for a
flush fit. The top cross piece forms a handle for the left hand, and
the bottom rests against the gut or hips to support the whole for
the right hand to operate the crank.<br />
</li>
<li>The white capstan is made from the plastic hub of a lawnmower
wheel, the ribbed texture is a neat bonus I only discovered after
cutting off the tire!<br />
</li>
<li>The green 50 pound test fishing line is being wound on the
reel it was sold on with the spider cut out to make it small halo.<br />
</li>
<li>The 3 fair leads are eye-bolts with their eyes twisted a bit
out of true so the line can be slipped in from the side at treading
time.<br />
</li>
<li>The pink stuff just visible to the right of the reel is
'rubber' packing foam cut into a disk to support the reel from the
inside with a hole in the center for the axle to go through.
<br />
</li>
<li>The wing nut just visible to the left is on the end of the
1/4” x 4” bolt that forms the axle. The axle passes though the
slipper clutch/reel holder, spine, and capstan to a double ended
crank on the far right.<br />
</li>
<li>The line is threaded in from the bottom of the reel to the
kite as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li>it feeds up from the bottom of the reel<br />
</li>
<li>to the reel-side fair lead<br />
</li>
<li>to the capstan takeoff fair lead,<br />
</li>
<li>around the capstan 4 times in the same direction as the
takeoff reel,<br />
</li>
<li>then through the capstan fair lead
<br />
</li>
<li>to the kite.<br />
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
Here is a capstan-side view with an Premier Kites 8 inch winder
mounted. Only the foam insert was changed to fit the larger reel.
Note the path the line is threaded through the fair leads and around
the capstan and reel.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YK2tqQ5x9dc/TziQziyl2MI/AAAAAAAAABY/LPdOMMJ8H0Q/s1600/Kapstan_i2_crank_side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YK2tqQ5x9dc/TziQziyl2MI/AAAAAAAAABY/LPdOMMJ8H0Q/s400/Kapstan_i2_crank_side.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The crank bar is made from hardware aluminum<a class="sdfootnoteanc" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote3sym" name="sdfootnote3anc"><sup>3</sup></a>
1.25” by 1/16 bar stock, the knobs are plastic drawer pulls. The
frame is made from 3/4” dowel. I cut the spinal dowel with a 3/4”
drill to make clean T-joints at the head and tail ends.<br />
The head of the axle bolt is visible here, clamped to the crank by
crimping it around the bar with a bench vise after starting the bend
with a hammer.<br />
The black backing disk on the other side of the spine is made of
1/8” expanded PVC board sometimes sold under the name 'Sintra' in
Canada and the United States. This stuff is nice to work with: I cut
that circle out with aircraft snips after drilling a center hole and
scribing a big circle as a guide.
<br />
<div style="page-break-after: avoid; page-break-before: auto;">
Here is
the whole winder from the other side with the 8 inch halo mounted and
tow other reels with their inserts to show the range of what sizes
work. The holes were punched though the foam with thin walled 1/4”
brass tubing because drills just don't work on this foam. I cut the
outlines with scissors and I did not try to be precise at all. There
is a lot of room for eccentricity and run out here since the rotation
speeds are so low.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jZ4V5D_lwZQ/TziQ0TYJ4QI/AAAAAAAAABg/AWDgz0iEH_k/s1600/Kapstan_i3_reel_side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jZ4V5D_lwZQ/TziQ0TYJ4QI/AAAAAAAAABg/AWDgz0iEH_k/s400/Kapstan_i3_reel_side.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The black retaining disk for the foam is also made from Sintra.
This was cut with the biggest hole saw I had and it fits nicely
inside the smallest reel while working well with this big one.<br />
<div style="page-break-after: avoid; page-break-before: auto;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rKJQXyRBDU/TziQ07nOltI/AAAAAAAAABo/lR7lDckpMy0/s1600/Kapstan_i4_small_reel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rKJQXyRBDU/TziQ07nOltI/AAAAAAAAABo/lR7lDckpMy0/s400/Kapstan_i4_small_reel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Here is
another view from the reel side with the fishing line mounted to show
the big backing disk along with the foam insert, insert retaining
disk, and the axle hardware (a jammed pair of nuts) that keeps the
business from spinning off while slipping.</div>
The foam insert allows the reel to be aligned to the fair lead
that feeds it. Level winding can be approximated by nudging the line
to the appropriate sides with the thumb of your hand on the top
crossbar while cranking with the other.<br />
<h2 class="western">
Details</h2>
<h3 class="western">
Slipper Clutch and Reel Holder</h3>
Here is the winder, upside down, with the reel support and slipper
clutch removed from the crank axle.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tc3_ofqYVxE/TziQ1C7q_sI/AAAAAAAAABw/DPsC3ft6eUk/s1600/Kapstan_i5_slipper_disassembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tc3_ofqYVxE/TziQ1C7q_sI/AAAAAAAAABw/DPsC3ft6eUk/s320/Kapstan_i5_slipper_disassembled.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The big backer disk would go on the axle first, then the foam reel
adaptor, then the small disk, the washer, the hex nut and lastly the
wing nut.<br />
The hex nut is finger tightened enough to squeeze the backer plate
against the hairpin clip just visible in this photograph. The tighter
this pressure, the tighter the line will wind on the reel since this
is the slipper clutch that controls that tension.<br />
The wing nut is necessary to hold the hex nut at the position
selected since normal operation will either tighten the nut (right
handers) or loosen the nut (left handers) as the clutch slips. Just
tighten the wing nut enough to jam the two nuts together. Remember
you will have to un-jam them with your fingers at some point!<br />
<h3 class="western">
Crank Axle Through Spine and Retaining hardware</h3>
<div style="page-break-after: avoid; page-break-before: auto;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4N5OXLwwf0k/TziQ1gPuxcI/AAAAAAAAAB4/8tnd_a9laJg/s1600/Kapstan_i6_axle_dismounted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4N5OXLwwf0k/TziQ1gPuxcI/AAAAAAAAAB4/8tnd_a9laJg/s320/Kapstan_i6_axle_dismounted.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Here the
crank axle has been removed from the spine and the retaining hardware
laid out in order of assembly. The two washers on each side reduce
friction and slop between the capstan, spring clip, and the spine
between them.</div>
The spring clip is threaded through a hole cross drilled in the
axle far enough away from the capstan to leave room for washers.<br />
The spine is cross drilled with a hole (barely visible here) big
enough to allow the crank axle to turn freely without slop. Start
small and work up in the smallest increments you can until things run
freely. If needed lubricate with candle wax later, but will swell the
wood and make things tighter.<br />
<h3 class="western">
Attaching the Capstan to the Axle</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O1Q6FSeYBek/TziQ2C26jiI/AAAAAAAAACA/NYjkneDnsQ4/s1600/Kapstan_i7_axle_shim_detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O1Q6FSeYBek/TziQ2C26jiI/AAAAAAAAACA/NYjkneDnsQ4/s320/Kapstan_i7_axle_shim_detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I used a piece of plastic hose to re-size the bore of the
lawnmower wheel hub to fit tightly on the bolt. This is where most of
the kite line strain and leverage from the crank racks the capstan so
it must be strong and solid. Fortunately that is not hard to
accomplish.<br />
The hose was picked to be a tight fit for the wheel bore, inserted
and cut to length, then drilled out for a tight fit on the 1/4 inch
crank axle.<br />
With the axle pressed in (and the crank installed, see below) I
drilled through the face of the capstan, through the hub, hose, and
axle to install a cross pin that fixes the wheel rigidly onto the
axle. I use coat hanger wire for the pin; I will use a rolled spring
pin for a cleaner look next time.<br />
<h3 class="western">
The Crank</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HTwsTxyDy_A/TziQ2lDOi1I/AAAAAAAAACI/LogljYU6eK8/s1600/Kapstan_i8_crank_detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HTwsTxyDy_A/TziQ2lDOi1I/AAAAAAAAACI/LogljYU6eK8/s320/Kapstan_i8_crank_detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The crank is a bit of aluminum bar stock with drawer pull knobs
for handles. The bolt of the crank axle is threaded through the a
hole at about the 2/3 vs 1/3 point and the bar bent up to pinch the
hexagonal head of the bolt. Note: the gaps between the crank handles
and the capstan are excellent traps from stray kite line. So
eliminate them in your editions!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2 class="western">
Obvious Possible Improvements</h2>
These have been left as an exercise for the reader.<br />
<ul>
<li>The hex nut jammed with the wing nut lacks class but that is
the best I have for now.<br />
</li>
<li>The wire pin through the capstan and axle should be a rolled
spring pin.
<br />
</li>
<li>The length of the spine should be adjustable to the body of
the user.<br />
</li>
<li>The sloppy nature of my crank handle leaves space for the
line to get wound between it and the capstan when threading or
winding out (see below). This is just a teething pain until someone
comes up with a better construction technique.<br />
</li>
<li>Clean up all the places the line gets caught while threading.<br />
</li>
<li>Add a holding strap for the crank.<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h2 class="western">
Advantages</h2>
I managed to accomplish most of my wish list and have hopes for
the rest. It is light and easy to transport, the parts are cheap to
buy, alter, and assemble. It is fairly handy to use, and gets out of
the way easily when it is not wanted.<br />
The mechanical advantage of the long throw handle is amazing to
use, especially when the line is being reeled in so nicely. The small
size of the capstan wheel helps a lot.<br />
The high speed, short throw handle works well too and its amazing
how fast the line comes in when all one has to do is crank; instead
of swinging the arms all over to dump line on the ground for later
low-tension pickup or for the slow one wind at a time spooling
directly onto a halo.<br />
A small capstan can wind onto many (larger) sizes of reels. The
example 8 inch halo seems to be about the workable limit. Larger
capstans would match better with larger reels for ease of operation,
and a longer crank handles would preserve the mechanical advantage.<br />
The cranking speeds are low enough that sloppy construction will
still work. The critical fits are all along the axle, but most are
self aligning or decreed by the drill bit for the axle hole. I don't
think I measured any linear dimension on the prototype; it was all
done 'by eye' and 'to fit'.<br />
This thing should scale up to handle strong pulling kites easily.
I suspect a heavier spine, a back strap, bearings on a thicker axle,
and a heavier crank will be most of the changes. The wheel hub
should be able to handle a lot of pull as it is.<br />
<h2 class="western">
Disadvantages (with some suggested fixes)</h2>
When the reel is bigger than the capstan, then unwinding line
while threaded is a tricky business. The problem is that the reel
lets out more line per revolution than the capstan will wind out; and
the extra line usually bunches up between the reel and the last fair
lead before jamming between the backing plate and the spinal column.
Retarding the reel with a thumb is usually enough to prevent this
from happening, but it is a pain. I hope to add a one way retarder
between the spine and the back plate to do this automatically. For
large line releases it is usually nicer to un-thread the line and use
the reel free-hand anyway.<br />
This winch does nothing for twisted line. It leaves the twist as
it finds it as long as there is some tension. If there is a lot of
twist and the line goes slack, then the line will twist on itself and
probably tangle somewhere inconvenient<a class="sdfootnoteanc" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote4sym" name="sdfootnote4anc"><sup>4</sup></a>.
The free-hand reel technique used to let out line will affect how
much twist added or removed from the line so pay attention and
alternate sides when letting the line rip off the reel.<br />
Threading and un-threading the line under tension is tedious but
not horrible. I worry more about teaching others how to do it than
the personal time and attention needed this ritual.<br />
The capstan has to be smaller than the winding diameter of the
reel for the slipper clutch arrangement to work. If the capstan is
bigger than the winding diameter, a gearing up mechanism is needed
and that seems too complicated to be worthwhile.<br />
<h2 class="western">
Further Work</h2>
Addressing the obvious improvements is a priority, but I see other
riffs on the basic concept.<br />
<h3 class="western">
Cordless Drill Power</h3>
I have made an electrically powered version. In fact that was
first! I learned just enough to tease you with.<br />
It turns out that a cordless drill, the rubber core from a sanding
drum, some O-rings, the top of a soup can, plus some coat hanger wire
can develop enough pull to snap 50 pound test fishing line while
leaving the winds on the reel loose enough to fall over. Fine trigger
control is necessary with that monster.<br />
I hope to refine this beast for wider consumption later. It seems
to be the perfect use for a cordless drill whose batteries have died.
Replacing those expensive batteries with a heavy sealed lead acid
battery means that the unit can be left on the ground with a few
traction spikes to haul down kites with no cranking!<br />
However, that is a story for another day. The existing kite
fishing winches are safe for now.<br />
<h3 class="western">
Bicycle Powered</h3>
I usually am on my bike when I am kite flying so using my legs via
gearing would be nice. Even better would be to use my 3 year old's
boundless energy.<br />
<h2 class="western">
Wrap-up and Challenge</h2>
Kite fliers tend to be inventors and hackers. My goal with this
missive was to throw a challenge out so others will improve on the
basic concept and construction insights that struck me this summer.<br />
If someone wants to construct and sell winders based on this, go
ahead! I hope you have competition! I want a sample, and some form of
credit, but I don't want to block real innovation in a pastime I
enjoy.<br />
<h2 class="western">
Contact Info</h2>
Albert den Haan<br />
<a href="mailto:albert.denhaan@gmail.com">albert.denhaan@gmail.com</a><br />
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.<br />
<span style="color: #0050a3;"><u><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"><img align="BOTTOM" border="0" height="31" name="graphics10" src="http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/88x31.png" width="88" /></a></u></span><br />
<span style="color: grey;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A
Kite Line Capstan With Winder Adaptors.</span></span></span><span style="color: grey;"> </span><span style="color: grey;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">by </span></span></span><a href="mailto:albert.denhaan@gmail.com"><span style="color: #4374b7;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Albert
den Haan</span></span></span></span></a><span style="color: grey;"> </span><span style="color: grey;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">is
licensed under a </span></span></span><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"><span style="color: #4374b7;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Creative
Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</span></span></span></span></a><span style="color: grey;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">.</span></span></span><br />
<div id="sdfootnote1">
<div class="sdfootnote">
<a class="sdfootnotesym" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote1anc" name="sdfootnote1sym">1</a>With
the handles installed these winches do look like manual coffee
grinders. The slang term for the tedious winching task becomes too
obvious.</div>
</div>
<div id="sdfootnote2">
<div class="sdfootnote">
<a class="sdfootnotesym" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote2anc" name="sdfootnote2sym">2</a>Yes,
I had to use the Kite Aerial Photography acronym.
</div>
</div>
<div id="sdfootnote3">
<div class="sdfootnote">
<a class="sdfootnotesym" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote3anc" name="sdfootnote3sym">3</a>'Aluminium'
to those outside North America</div>
</div>
<div id="sdfootnote4">
<div class="sdfootnote">
<a class="sdfootnotesym" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3575762021725094452#sdfootnote4anc" name="sdfootnote4sym">4</a>This
is not unique to the KAPstan, it just has more inconvenient places
for the tangles to go than some other reels.</div>
</div>Alberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01052214355333389000noreply@blogger.com0